当然，如果您当前的 XLR 电缆无法正常工作，您可以去亚马逊(Amazon)购买全新的XLR电缆，或者您可以弄脏自己的手并尝试自己修理。如果您知道如何焊接，则可以延长所有电缆的使用寿命。
您将需要的材料是：
- XLR 电缆
- 一个夹子（用来固定您的 XLR 电缆）
- 一个烙铁
- 焊接
- 一对剪线钳
- 一把刀（无锯齿）
- （可选）电缆测试仪
在上图中，XLR电缆的公端在左侧，母端在右侧。了解XLR(XLR)电缆中各根电线的位置很重要。下面的图片将为我们提供这些信息。
通常，屏蔽/接地（铜(Copper)）线总是与1相关联，带正电的（红色(Red )或蓝色(Blue)）线与2相关联，带负电的（白色(White)、蓝色(Blue)或绿色(Green )或黑色(Black)）线与3相关联。
注意(NOTE)：如果电缆内有白线，则正极为红色或蓝色，如果没有白线的蓝色线，则正极为红色。
我们要对XLR电缆做的第一件事是在黑色防护装置下方切断电缆的两端，完全移除公端(Male)和母(Female)端。拧下黑色防护罩并拆卸金属屏蔽罩，直到看起来像这样：
从这里你将牢牢地夹住你首先要工作的那一端，这样你就可以开始焊接了。它应该是这样的：
从这一点开始，您将拿起烙铁并轻轻接触每个焊杯的底部，直到焊杯内的焊料加热到足以移除电线。
用烙铁头清洁每个杯子内剩余的焊料。注意：焊杯的编号将显示在焊杯的正上方。此步骤完成后，它应如下所示：
从这一点开始，您需要将黑色防护装置滑过我们之前切割的电线。注意：在开始剥线并将末端焊接到公母端口之前，这需要是您做的第一件事，否则防护装置将无法拧入金属屏蔽层。
将防护装置放置在XLR电缆上后，使用小刀轻轻按压并用电线滚动小刀以将其剥离，露出织物、铜线和两根电线。从这里您将需要完全移除所有织物，因为我们不需要它。
与织物缠绕在一起的铜线是必要的，所以不要(DO NOT)剪断它们。在所有织物都消失后，将铜线绞合在一起，直到形成更大的单股铜线。
将电缆内两根较小电线的末端剥去(Strip)不超过 1 厘米，方法与您对电缆本身所做的相同。您的电缆将如下所示：
在将电线的末端焊接到各自的杯子之前，我们将“镀锡”电线的末端和杯子的容器。“镀锡”的过程非常简单；它基本上只是在每根电线的末端涂上新鲜的焊料，所以当你把它们焊接在一起时，它们更容易融合。
将电线末端镀锡后，它看起来就像上图一样，只是电线末端有闪亮的金属焊料。从这里我们可以开始焊接。
请参阅上面的地图，将电线的末端与各自的杯子相匹配。当您准备好开始焊接时，将焊丝的尖端轻轻地放在已经在杯子中的焊料上。
从那里，用烙铁的尖端轻轻加热杯子的底部，直到里面的焊料变成液体，轻轻地将电线的末端压入杯子中，然后取出烙铁。金属丝的尖端现在应该与杯子融合在一起。
您选择哪一边的顺序并不重要。如果你先焊接母头，接地(grounding)线应该映射到1，正极(positive)线应该映射到2，负极(negative)线应该映射到3。
如果您正在焊接公头，则接地(grounding)线、正极(positive)线和负极(negative)线将映射到相同的数字，但是(HOWEVER)，1 和 2 将位于相反的两侧（图(Fig)1）。
完成焊接后，您现在可以组装公端和母端，执行与图 2(Fig. 2)中相同的操作，但顺序相反。
即使我们已经完成，如果您将电缆用于专业音频工作或只是想确保您正确完成所有操作，我建议您购买电缆测试仪以确保每个焊接端都有完美的连接。这是我使用的一个：
从长远来看，这款电缆测试仪为我节省了时间和金钱，而且非常易于使用。要查看您的电缆是否正常工作，只需将电缆的两端插入测试仪上的相应插槽，打开电源(power)，将其切换到电缆测试仪(Cable Tester)并分析设备底部的红灯(red lights)。
右侧与Pin 1相关联(Pin 1)的(right)灯应与顶部(top)的相应Pin 1匹配。Pin 2（右(right)）应与Pin 2（上(top)）对应，与Pin 3相同。如果电缆工作正常，您应该会看到三个红灯从右上角(Top Right)到左下角(Bottom Left)对角亮起。
你完成了！如果一切正常，您的XLR电缆现在就像新的一样好。如果您有任何问题，请随时提出，我会澄清任何可能令人困惑的事情。
Image Credits:
https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/13000-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables-2.html
How to Fix an XLR Cable (Soldering Guide)
Sure, you can go to Amazon and buy a brand new XLR cable if your current one is not working or you can get your hands dirty and try to fix it yourself. You can increase the longevity of all of your cаbles if you knоw how to solder.
The materials you will need are:
- An XLR Cable
- A clamp (to hold your XLR cable)
- A soldering iron
- Solder
- A pair of wire cutters
- A knife (not serrated)
- (Optional) A cable tester
In the picture above, the male end of the XLR cable is on the left and the female end is on the right. It’s important to know the placement of the individual wires within the XLR cable. The picture below will give us this information.
Customarily, the Shield/Ground (Copper) wire is always going to be associated with 1, the positively charged (Red or Blue) wire associated with 2 and the negatively charged (White, Blue or Green or Black) wire associated with 3.
NOTE: If there’s a white wire inside your cable, your positive end will be red or blue, if there’s a blue wire with no white wire, your positive end will be red.
The first thing we’re going to do with our XLR cable is cut both ends of the cable right under the black safeguard, removing the Male and Female ends completely. Unscrew the black safeguard and disassemble the metal shielding until it looks something like this:
From here you’re going to firmly clamp down whichever end you’re working on first so you can begin soldering. Here’s what it should look like:
From this point, you’re going to take your soldering iron and gently make contact with the bottom of each solder cup until the solder inside the cup heats up enough for you to remove the wires.
Clean the remaining solder inside each cup with the tip of your soldering iron. NOTE: the number of the soldering cup will be shown directly above the cup. After this step is completed, it should look something like this:
From this point you will need to slide the black safeguard over the wire that we cut earlier. NOTE: this needs to be the first thing that you do before you start stripping the wire and soldering the ends to the male and female ports or else the safeguard will not be able to screw into the metal shielding.
After the safeguard is placed over the XLR cable, use your knife and gently press and roll the knife with the wire to strip it, exposing fabric, copper strands, and two wires. From here you will need to completely remove all of the fabric, as we will not need it.
The copper strands that are intertwined with the fabric is necessary so DO NOT cut those. After all of the fabric is gone, twist and roll the copper strands together until it forms a larger single strand of copper.
Strip no more than 1cm off of the ends of the two smaller wires inside the cable the same way you did for the cable itself. Your cable will look something like this:
Before soldering the ends of the wires to their respective cups, we are going to ‘tin’ the ends of the wires and the reservoirs of the cups. The process of ‘tinning’ is very simple; it’s basically just applying fresh solder to the ends of each wire, so when you go to solder them together, it’s much easier for them to fuse.
After tinning the ends of the wires, it will look exactly like the picture above, only with shiny metal solder on the ends of the wire. From here we can begin soldering.
Refer to the map above to match the ends of the wires to their respective cups. When you’re ready to start soldering, gently place the tip of your wire on top of the solder that’s already in the cup.
From there, gently heat the bottom of the cup with the tip of your soldering iron until the solder inside becomes liquid, gently press the end of your wire down into the cup and remove the soldering iron. The tip of the wire should now be fused to the cup.
The order of which side you choose does not matter. If you’re soldering the female head first, the grounding wire should be mapped to 1, the positive wire should be mapped to 2 and the negative wire should be mapped to 3.
If you’re soldering the male head, the grounding, positive and negative wires are mapped to the same numbers HOWEVER, 1 and 2 will be on opposite sides (Fig. 1).
When you finish soldering, you are now ready
to assemble the male and female ends, doing the same thing you did in Fig. 2, but in the reverse order.
Even though we’re finished, if you’re using the cable for professional audio work or just want to ensure you did everything correctly, I would recommend buying a cable tester to make sure each soldered end has a perfect connection. Here’s the one I use:
This cable tester has saved me time and money in the long run and is super easy to use. To see if your cable is working properly, simply plug both ends of your cable into the respective slots on the tester, power it on, switch it to Cable Tester and analyze the red lights on the bottom of the device.
The light associated with Pin 1 on the right side should match the respective Pin 1 on the top. Pin 2 (right) should Correspond with Pin 2 (top) and the same with Pin 3. If the cable is working perfectly you should see three red lights illuminated diagonally from the Top Right to the Bottom Left.
You’re done! If everything was done correctly, your XLR cable is now as good as new. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I will clarify anything that might have been confusing.
Image Credits:
https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/13000-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables-2.html
