3D 细丝打印机可以生产从节日装饰品(holiday ornaments)到医疗植入物的任何东西，所以在这个过程中不乏兴奋。问题在于从您的3D 模型(3D model)到实际打印。很多事情都可能出错并毁掉您的打印，尤其是如果您不熟悉此操作并且仍在弄清楚3D 打印的工作原理(how 3D printing works)。
在本文中，我们将向您展示如何通过帮助您修复出错的 3D 灯丝打印件来获得更好的结果。查看我们所有的故障排除技巧，逐步应用它们，最重要的是，请耐心等待。3D FDMprinting 有时令人沮丧，但由于其无数的实际应用，它是有益的。
不是打印
您的 3D 打印机是否无法打印任何内容？别担心，这是一个普遍的问题。有很多问题可以阻止您的打印机挤出任何材料。以下是最常见的问题以及如何解决这些问题。
1.检查灯丝(1. Check the Filament)
您已经准备好打印机和模型，但没有任何反应。您甚至可能会通过喷嘴得到一些残留的灯丝，但您的模型没有被打印出来。
您的打印机耗材已用完。这听起来像是一个明显的问题，但如果您没有打印机在您需要添加新的线轴时发出警告，则很容易错过。在调查其他可能的问题之前，请确保您的 3D 打印机有足够的灯丝来打印您的模型。
2. 检查堵塞的喷嘴 (2. Check for a Clogged Nozzle )
如果您正在处理堵塞物，则打印机喷嘴不会流出任何东西。这通常发生在您更换灯丝或材料类型并且有一些旧材料卡在喷嘴中时。通过执行定期维护并在每个项目后保持喷嘴清洁来完全防止任何堵塞。(Prevent)
也就是说，如果您忘记清洁喷嘴，您可以借助针头或其他薄物体轻松清除堵塞物。将针头(Stick)穿过喷嘴，尽可能多地去除剩余的灯丝。您可以在执行此操作时加热喷嘴，以使您的工作更轻松。
或者，您可以尝试强制新灯丝穿过堵塞物。这可能无法单独工作，您必须施加一些外部压力才能将旧灯丝挤出。如果您尝试此方法，请轻轻用力，否则可能会损坏打印机。
3.调整喷嘴(3. Adjust the Nozzle)
如果您的打印机仍然无法工作，则喷嘴可能离打印表面太近。发生这种情况时，灯丝无法正确通过喷嘴形成层。此问题还可能导致漏层、堵塞或粘附问题，因此请务必调整喷嘴高度。
转到打印机的设置并更改Z 轴(Z-axis)值。将参数增加到打印机制造商在手册中推荐的值或逐渐调整喷嘴高度，直到灯丝正常流动。
4. 寻找灯丝碎片(4. Look for Filament Fragmentation)
被忽视的最常见的 3D 打印问题之一是灯丝碎片。灯丝线轴看起来不错，但没有任何东西从热端流出。在这种情况下，您可能会在阀芯和喷嘴之间的某处处理碎片。
这在很大程度上取决于您使用的材料类型，是ABS还是PLA，以及它的使用年限。也就是说，唯一的解决方案是移除灯丝以寻找任何损坏的部分。如果材料是新的，但您确认它在途中破裂，请尝试使用不同的线轴或尝试降低温度和流量。
5. 打印头是否缺少打印床？(5. Is the Print Head Missing the Print Bed?)
(Did)开始打印时是否听到可怕的噪音？打印头可能正试图离开其 X 轴或 Y 轴并且它完全离开了打印床。这使打印变得不可能，通常是由软件配置问题引起的。
确保(Make)在切片机软件中选择正确的打印机。每个模型都有自己的设置参数，包含在配置文件中。如果您选择了错误的型号，打印头将会错位。也就是说，您还应该更新固件，因为过时的配置也会导致此问题。
印刷完全失败
所以你设法让你的 3D 打印机正常工作，但打印结果却是一场彻底的灾难。这通常发生在打印无法粘贴或支撑无法按预期工作时。无论如何，以下是最常见的 3D 打印问题。
6. 修复可怕的床粘连(6. Fixing Terrible Bed Adhesion)
导致打印失败的最常见问题之一是缺乏床附着力。打印件无法正确粘贴在打印床上，因此整个项目都浪费了时间。
首先，确保打印床正确调平并且干净。任何不属于打印表面的材料都可以防止灯丝粘附。之后(Afterward)，尝试使用支架或帽檐。进入切片器的设置并使用这些附加元素进行打印。
7. 支撑失败并破坏了您的印刷品吗？(7. Did the Supports Fail and Ruin Your Print?)
如前所述，使用支撑有助于打印床附着力，但在打印复杂模型时它们也是必不可少的。如果没有支撑，您的打印可能会受到其他问题的影响，例如边缘翘曲和层偏移。此外，使用错误的支撑类型或没有足够的支撑可能会破坏您的项目。
幸运的是，您的切片器软件应该会自动生成您需要的支持。然后，如果您认为您的打印可能会因悬垂、翘曲和其他问题而损坏，您可以手动添加更多支撑。也就是说，您必须根据您的项目尝试支持。没有办法解决这个问题。
8. 挤压变坏了(8. Extrusion Gone Bad)
有时，当您认为自己已经解决了所有问题时，打印机的热端会在打印过程中途停止挤出灯丝。这肯定会毁了你的整个项目，但它很容易预防。
确保(Make)你有足够的灯丝。像Cura(Cura)这样的切片软件应该可以让您粗略估计您的项目需要多少灯丝。只是(Just)不要忘记，材料类型在估算时也会有所不同，因此PLA要求可能与ABS要求不同。在开始之前检查卷。
之后，检查打印机的喷嘴是否堵塞。这也可以在打印时突然停止挤出。在这种情况下，请参阅我们的上述喷嘴堵塞解决方案。
你的印刷品看起来很糟糕
尽管您尽了最大的努力，但还是出现了问题，您的打印效果并没有达到应有的流畅度。很多事情会影响 3D 打印过程并导致翘曲、拉丝、层混乱、随机斑点、渗出、填充不良和丑陋的副作用，这些都会毁掉你的项目。这是你可以做的。
9.修复翘曲(9. Fix Warping)
使用PLA(PLA)和ABS等长丝进行 3D 打印时最常见的问题之一是翘曲。您的模型将其底座向上翘曲，并从打印床上脱离。这也可能导致裂缝，进一步使您的打印件无法使用。幸运的是，有几种可能的修复方法：
- 加热打印平台(Heat the print platform)。通过使打印床的温度接近材料的熔点，您可以强制第一层保持完全平坦。根据制造商的建议通过切片软件调整温度。
- 重新校准(Recalibrate)。完成校准过程并调平打印床。您还应该调整喷嘴的高度，并确保它不会离平台太近或太远。
- 使用木筏(Use rafts)。如果存在粘附或接触问题，请尝试通过切片器软件添加木筏。
10. 把第一层做好(10. Get the First Layer Right)
如果第一层出现问题，您的打印效果可能会很丑。在开始打印之前，请确保打印床正确调平。不平整的床是大多数打印失败的原因。之后(Afterward)，调整喷嘴的高度和流量。
11. 防止开裂(11. Prevent Cracking)
没有什么比裂开的印刷品更丑陋、更无用的了。如果熔化的塑料冷却过快，您可能会出现一些裂缝，尤其是在顶层。从如此高的温度到低温会使材料收缩并导致裂缝。这通常是大型模型的问题。
您可以尝试两件事：
- 调整挤出机的温度(Adjust the temperature of the extruder)。在不超过灯丝制造商推荐值的情况下小幅增加它。
- 调整风扇转速(Adjust the fan speed)。如果您的模型上的冷却风扇吹得太猛，它可能冷却得太快了。逐步调整它，直到找到最佳位置。请记住，您仍然需要足够高的风扇速度来防止翘曲和其他变形。
12.防止穿线(Prevent Stringing)
也称为渗出，拉线是破坏 3D FDM打印的最常见问题之一。当挤出机从一个点移动到另一个点时，模型上会形成细小(Thin)的粘稠塑料。
您需要检查几个因素来解决此问题：
- 温度是否过高？(Is the temperature too high?)过热的挤出机会使细丝渗出得太快。将温度降低几度，这样它就不会那么快泄漏。
- 增加移动速度(Increase the movement speed)。如果打印机在 X 或 Y 轴上的移动速度不够快，则挤出机可能会留下细细的塑料串。进入切片软件的设置并调整移动速度设置。
- 调整回缩速度设置(Adjust the retraction speed setting)。缓慢的回缩速度会导致细丝在挤出机到达新位置之前从喷嘴渗出。这会将塑料从 A 点传播到 B 点，就像蜘蛛网一样。尝试切片机的软件预配置，并在选择时牢记灯丝材料。
3D 打印具有挑战性
创建 3D 模型非常令人满意，但很多事情都可能出错，不可能在一篇文章中涵盖所有内容。使用FDM(FDM)打印机时需要牢记许多变量，因此如果 3D 打印结果不如您希望的那样好，请不要惊慌。确保(Make)您的打印机已正确校准并且您使用的是高质量的灯丝。一旦解决了问题，请完成每个故障排除步骤。
如果没有任何帮助，请在下面的评论部分向我们提供有关您的 3D 打印问题的更多详细信息，我们将尽最大努力为您提供帮助。
12 Troubleshooting Tips for 3D Filament Prints Gone Awry
3D filament printers can produсe anything from holiday ornaments to medical implants, so there’s no shortage of excitement in the process. The problem is getting from your 3D model to the actual print. A lot of things can go wrong and ruin your print, especially if you’re new to this and still figuring out how 3D printing works.
In this article, we’ll show you how to get better results by helping you fix your 3D filament prints gone awry. Check all our troubleshooting tips, apply them step-by-step, and above all, be patient. 3D FDMprinting can be frustrating at times, but it’s rewarding due to its countless real-world applications.
It’s Not Printing
Is your 3D printer failing to print anything? Don’t worry, this is a common issue. There are quite a few problems that can prevent your printer from extruding any material. Here are the most common issues and how to troubleshoot them.
1. Check the Filament
You’ve prepared the printer and your model but nothing is happening. You might even get some residual filament coming through the nozzle, but your model isn’t being printed.
Your printer has run out of filament. This may sound like an obvious problem, but it’s easy to miss if you don’t have a printer that warns you when you need to add a new spool. Before looking into other possible issues, make sure your 3D printer has plenty of filament to print your model.
2. Check for a Clogged Nozzle
If you’re dealing with a clog, nothing will come out of the printer nozzle. This usually happens when you change the filament or the type of material and there’s some old material stuck in the nozzle. Prevent any blockage altogether by performing regular maintenance and keeping the nozzle clean after every project.
That said, if you forgot to clean the nozzle, you can easily remove a clog with the help of a needle or some other thin object. Stick the needle through the nozzle to remove as much of the remaining filament as possible. You can heat the nozzle while doing this to make your job easier.
Alternatively, you can try to force the new filament through to push through the blockage. This might not work on its own and you’ll have to apply some external pressure to force the old filament out. If you try this method, apply force gently or you might damage your printer.
3. Adjust the Nozzle
If your printer still doesn’t work, the nozzle might be too close to the print surface. When that happens, the filament can’t properly go through the nozzle to form layers. This issue can also lead to missing layers, clogs, or adhesion problems, so make sure to adjust the nozzle height.
Go to the printer’s settings and change the Z-axis value. Increase the parameter to what the printer manufacturer recommends in the manual or make gradual adjustments to the nozzle height until the filament flows normally.
4. Look for Filament Fragmentation
One of the most common 3D printing problems that go unnoticed is filament fragmentation. The filament spool seems fine, but nothing comes out through the hot end. In this case, you might be dealing with fragmentation somewhere between the spool and the nozzle.
This highly depends on the type of material you’re using, whether it’s ABS or PLA, and how old it is. That said, the only solution is to remove the filament to look for any damaged sections. If the material is new but you confirmed that it’s breaking along the way, try a different spool or try reducing the temperature and flow.
5. Is the Print Head Missing the Print Bed?
Did you hear an awful noise while starting to print? The print head might be trying to go off its X- or Y-axis and it’s completely off the print bed. This makes printing impossible and it’s usually caused by a software configuration problem.
Make sure you select the right printer in your slicer software. Each model comes with its own settings parameters included in a configuration file. If you select the wrong model, the print head will be misaligned. That said, you should also update the firmware since outdated configurations can also cause this problem.
The Print Was a Complete Failure
So you managed to get your 3D printer working, but the print turned out to be a complete disaster. This usually happens when the print fails to stick or when the supports don’t work as intended. Whatever the case, here are the most common 3D printing issues.
6. Fixing Terrible Bed Adhesion
One of the most common problems that cause prints to fail is the lack of bed adhesion. The print fails to stick properly to the print bed, so the whole project becomes a waste of time.
First, make sure the print bed is properly leveled and that it’s clean. Any material that doesn’t belong on the print surface can prevent the filament from sticking. Afterward, try using supports or a brim. Go into your slicer’s settings and print using those additional elements.
7. Did the Supports Fail and Ruin Your Print?
As mentioned, using supports can help with print bed adhesion, but they’re also a must-have when printing complex models. Without supports, your print can be affected by other issues like warping edges and layer shifting. Also, using the wrong support type or not having enough supports can ruin your project.
Fortunately, your slicer software should automatically generate the supports you need. Then you add more supports manually if you think your print might be ruined by overhangs, warping, and other issues. That said, you’ll have to experiment with supports depending on your project. There’s no way around this.
8. Extrusion Gone Bad
Sometimes when you think you’ve figured everything out, your printer’s hot end stops extruding filament halfway through the printing process. This will definitely ruin your whole project, but it’s easily preventable.
Make sure you have plenty of filament. Slicing software like Cura should give you a rough estimate of how much filament you’re going to need for your project. Just don’t forget that material types also make a difference when it comes to the estimate, so PLA requirements might not be the same as ABS requirements. Check the roll before you get started.
Afterward, check if your printer’s nozzle is clogged. This can also stop the extrusion suddenly while printing. In that case, refer to our above solutions for clogged nozzles.
Your Print Looks Bad
Despite your best efforts, something went wrong and your print doesn’t look as nice and smooth as it should. A lot of things will influence the 3D printing process and lead to warping, stringing, messy layers, random blobs, oozing, bad infill, and ugly side effects that will ruin your project. Here’s what you can do.
9. Fix Warping
One of the most common problems in 3D printing with filament like PLA and ABS is warping. Your model warps its base upwards and it detaches itself from the print bed. This can also result in cracks, further rendering your print unusable. Fortunately, there are several possible fixes:
- Heat the print platform. By bringing the temperature of the print bed close to the melting point of the material, you can force the first layers to remain perfectly flat. Adjust the temperature through the slicing software based on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Recalibrate. Go through the calibration process and level the printing bed. You should also adjust the nozzle’s height and make sure it’s not too close or too far from the platform.
- Use rafts. If there’s an adhesion or contact problem, try adding rafts through your slicer software.
10. Get the First Layer Right
If something goes wrong with the first layer, chances are you’ll have an ugly print. Before you start printing, make sure the print bed is correctly leveled. An unlevel bed is a cause for most failed prints. Afterward, adjust the height of the nozzle and the flow rate.
11. Prevent Cracking
There’s nothing uglier and more useless than a cracked print. If the melted plastic cools off too fast, you’ll probably get some cracks, especially in the top layers. Going from such a high temperature to a low one will make the material contract and that results in cracks. This is usually a problem with large models.
There are two things you can try:
- Adjust the temperature of the extruder. Increase it in small increments while not going beyond the filament manufacturer’s recommended values.
- Adjust the fan speed. If the cooling fan is blowing too hard on your model, it might be cooling it too quickly. Tweak it in increments until you find the sweet spot. Keep in mind you still need a high enough fan speed to prevent warping and other deformations.
12. Prevent Stringing
Also known as oozing, stringing is one of the most common issues that ruin 3D FDM prints. Thin bits of stringy plastic form on the model when the extruder moves from one point to another.
There are several factors you need to check to fix this:
- Is the temperature too high? An overheating extruder will make the filament ooze out too quickly. Lower the temperature by a few degrees so it doesn’t leak out so fast.
- Increase the movement speed. If the printer doesn’t move fast enough on its X or Y-axis, the extruder can leave thin strings of plastic behind. Go into your slicing software’s settings and adjust the movement speed settings.
- Adjust the retraction speed setting. A slow retraction speed will cause the filament to ooze through the nozzle before the extruder can reach its new position. This will spread the plastic from point A to point B like a spider web. Try your slicer’s software pre-configurations and keep in mind the filament material when choosing.
3D Printing Can Be Challenging
Creating a 3D model is highly satisfying, but a lot of things can go wrong and it’s impossible to cover everything in one article. There are many variables to keep in mind when you use an FDM printer, so don’t panic if your 3D print doesn’t turn out as well as you’d hoped. Make sure your printer is properly calibrated and that you’re using high-quality filament. Once that’s out of the way, go through each troubleshooting step.
If nothing helps, give us more details about your 3D printing issues in the comment section below and we’ll do our best to help you out.
